After dropping my stuff on the sand, the first thing I do at the beach is sprint to the water. I wade in slowly taking in the chilly temperature of the water until I get to the waves that are big enough to go under. I dive with my hands out in front of my head holding my fins and dolphin kick while I feel the surge roll over me. The cold water on my head is invigorating. Strands of green sea grass are shaken off each time I pop up. After diving swiftly through a few white wash waves, I turn around to slip on my fins. Now I swim freestyle, ducking now and then to avoid being slapped in the face by a gush of water. When I reach the outside I scan for an acceptably sized swell and anticipate where it will break. As it nears I kick and paddle as hard as possible before I feel it push me. With my arms back and my head up, I take in the exhilaration of body surfing.